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Simplicity 2890, Formerly 7215
When simplicity changed the pattern number, some kind person put the corset pattern on ebay as a buy it now auction for $4.50. The difference is that the new pattern includes bloomers, and the chemise has shorter sleeves: http://www.simplicity.com/p-1802-costumes.aspx
I'v actually had this corset cut out and ready to start sewing for about a month...but the Gussets scared me!
Mock-up:
One layer cotton duck, with bias tape used for the boning channels. This corset fit me pretty well right off from the start (amazingly!) I had shortened the upper waist by an inch before I cut it out (My usual quick fix for my short waisted-ness) otherwise there was only a few small tucks (1/8 and 1/4 inch) needed here and there. I only boned half the corset for the sack of time.
The corset:
Outer layer of light blue silk Dupioni fused to cotton coutil. The corset has coutil bone casings (on the inside) and a plain white cotton lining. As per the original corset instructions, the waist stay is only in half the corset (The back half). The gussets are reinforced/embroidered with pearl cotton thread.
Honestly, I don't like the instructions for this corset (The illustrations are horrible!)And there are a few things construction wise that irked me so I deviated in a few places from the original, I'll point out where.
The gussets:
These gussets really scared me, but they ended up being not that bad (or even really hard) to complete. I think one thing that really helped was that my fabrics were fused together, so fraying was non-existent.
First the gussets were slashed and pressed under. The points were then wrapped with the embroidery thread to a half inch on either side. I didn't use any fancy stitches, but I imagine on the hip gores you could get pretty fancy. (In the lining this part is done with a machine zigzag-original instructions)
After that the gussets were pinned/eased in matching the balance marks and stitched. I double stitched to be decorative, but also so it would match my boning casings later.
Part of me wishes I had thought to stitch decoratively ON the gussets before I put them in...perhaps the next one.
Bone casings:
This is mainly were I deviated from the instructions, I stitched my bone casings directly onto my fashion/strength layer instead of on top of all layers. This way I could more accurately land my casings to look neat from the outside, and cover all my pencils markings when I put in the lining. I also didn't particularly like the Idea of having the casings visible on top of the lining on the inside where they might rub.
I also added an additional bone to the side seam (and actually the only real seam in the corset besides the front facing, all the shaping is from the gores/gussets.)
Inside View:
Outside view:
Lining:
To put in the lining I first pinned it wrong side to wrong side to the fashion strength layer of the corset matching all seams and gussets. I then turned the entire piece over so I was looking at the fashion fabric and stitched through all layers duplicating the bone casing stitching. This safely secured the lining, and made the white stitching "pop" as a decorative element.
Facing and Grommets:
Back: The center back of the corset has a fold over edge, instead of a facing. I Covered the seam allowance with self Bias and made sure the edge got "caught" by the stitching of the nearest bone casing. Once I sandwich the center back bones, and put int the grommets I think It will be quite secure. This is different from the original instructions...which I don't even remember.
Front:
As with my cupped corset:http://izodiea.livejournal.com/14495.html#cutid1
I can't really finish putting in my busk until I get my machine/zipper foot back. Once I do however I will finish using the original instructions for the facing...most likely. I may have to add an under busk bone,or lacing at the top since my bust is a bit short. I am also a little worried about bulk at the front, mostly because of the curved half inch dart this corset has sitting on top of the busk.
Another thing I really need before I can move on is bolt cutters! I can't really add my 1/4" spirals until then. I plan to bind the edges with self bias, still undecided about trim. The grommets I have are silver, silver trim? The entire corset is going to be flossed using white pearl cotton to match the gussets.
I'v actually had this corset cut out and ready to start sewing for about a month...but the Gussets scared me!
Mock-up:
One layer cotton duck, with bias tape used for the boning channels. This corset fit me pretty well right off from the start (amazingly!) I had shortened the upper waist by an inch before I cut it out (My usual quick fix for my short waisted-ness) otherwise there was only a few small tucks (1/8 and 1/4 inch) needed here and there. I only boned half the corset for the sack of time.
The corset:
Outer layer of light blue silk Dupioni fused to cotton coutil. The corset has coutil bone casings (on the inside) and a plain white cotton lining. As per the original corset instructions, the waist stay is only in half the corset (The back half). The gussets are reinforced/embroidered with pearl cotton thread.
Honestly, I don't like the instructions for this corset (The illustrations are horrible!)And there are a few things construction wise that irked me so I deviated in a few places from the original, I'll point out where.
The gussets:
These gussets really scared me, but they ended up being not that bad (or even really hard) to complete. I think one thing that really helped was that my fabrics were fused together, so fraying was non-existent.
First the gussets were slashed and pressed under. The points were then wrapped with the embroidery thread to a half inch on either side. I didn't use any fancy stitches, but I imagine on the hip gores you could get pretty fancy. (In the lining this part is done with a machine zigzag-original instructions)
After that the gussets were pinned/eased in matching the balance marks and stitched. I double stitched to be decorative, but also so it would match my boning casings later.
Part of me wishes I had thought to stitch decoratively ON the gussets before I put them in...perhaps the next one.
Bone casings:
This is mainly were I deviated from the instructions, I stitched my bone casings directly onto my fashion/strength layer instead of on top of all layers. This way I could more accurately land my casings to look neat from the outside, and cover all my pencils markings when I put in the lining. I also didn't particularly like the Idea of having the casings visible on top of the lining on the inside where they might rub.
I also added an additional bone to the side seam (and actually the only real seam in the corset besides the front facing, all the shaping is from the gores/gussets.)
Inside View:
Outside view:
Lining:
To put in the lining I first pinned it wrong side to wrong side to the fashion strength layer of the corset matching all seams and gussets. I then turned the entire piece over so I was looking at the fashion fabric and stitched through all layers duplicating the bone casing stitching. This safely secured the lining, and made the white stitching "pop" as a decorative element.
Facing and Grommets:
Back: The center back of the corset has a fold over edge, instead of a facing. I Covered the seam allowance with self Bias and made sure the edge got "caught" by the stitching of the nearest bone casing. Once I sandwich the center back bones, and put int the grommets I think It will be quite secure. This is different from the original instructions...which I don't even remember.
Front:
As with my cupped corset:http://izodiea.livejournal.com/14495.html#cutid1
I can't really finish putting in my busk until I get my machine/zipper foot back. Once I do however I will finish using the original instructions for the facing...most likely. I may have to add an under busk bone,or lacing at the top since my bust is a bit short. I am also a little worried about bulk at the front, mostly because of the curved half inch dart this corset has sitting on top of the busk.
Another thing I really need before I can move on is bolt cutters! I can't really add my 1/4" spirals until then. I plan to bind the edges with self bias, still undecided about trim. The grommets I have are silver, silver trim? The entire corset is going to be flossed using white pearl cotton to match the gussets.