izodiea: (Default)
izodiea ([personal profile] izodiea) wrote2009-10-23 01:00 pm

More 18th Century progress!!!

I'v made A LOT of progress on my 18th Century Polonaise since my last post. The dress its self is 100% done, but I have unfortunately not gotten around to taking good pictures of me wearing it since I put the trim on. All of the undergarments, however, are done and I have pictures so I am posting bellow.
(also see http://izodiea.livejournal.com/8676.html#cutid)

I have also finished one of the accessories (a calash) for this costume so i am posting pictures of that as well. The others (Mitts, caplet, sash and tricorn) are still in progress. I'm hoping to finish and properly photograph everything over the winter holiday, since i'll be out of school and have more time then.

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Originally when I started this project I wasn't 100% sure what direction I was going in so i started by making a basic set of undergarments. Here you can see my pocket hoops and petticoat:

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The pocket hoops were made from left over material from my farthingale (http://izodiea.livejournal.com/5953.html#cutid1) And the petticoat is a Nylon/cotton blend from Stonemountian and Daughter in Berkeley. I fallowed the directions in the JP Ryan pattern. Oh, and if you ever make this petticoat i recommend replacing the ties with hooks, the ties were useless and always came undone.

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When I decided I wanted a more 177-8o's look for the costume I realized I needed to switch undergarments. So I made myself a bumroll and quilted petticoat fallowing Demodes' example: http://demodecouture.com/18th-century-skirt-supports/

I used the quilted petticoat pattern (With modifications to the pleating to make the front flatter) from Patterns of Fashion. It's one layer pre-quilted cotton/ploy from Jo-anns. I also added a little extra padding (more fabric) to the back and horsehair to the hem.

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A picture of the final Mock-up...#4 if I remember correctly...I went a little crazy...and the sleeves still don't fit quite right...but at a certain point you just have to give up...
and HUGE thanks to my roommate for helping me each time!!!

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This is a picture I took to check the bodice fit before I attached the skirt and sleeves:

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Attaching the skirt (Using my roommates mannequin):

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The dress showing the polonaise effect in the back. I used internal ties, so I can adjust the tiers, or wear the skirt down. Please note the sleeve caps arn't sewn in this picture:

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THE DRESS!!! Completely finished except for trim!!! I'm wearing the mock-up of my sash, which will be black in the final version:

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The dress is Dark Olive green Dupioni from Renaissancefabric.net. The bodice is lined in twill, and the skirt flalined to cotton voile. I used the JP Ryan pattern for the anglaise/polonaise. The center front is piped for a little added visual interest. And a teaser for the trim...

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And the Callash:

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The Callash is Black silk dupion, lined in off black Luis Vuitton print cotton, both from Piedmont fabric in Oakland. I used the Winego pattern (Lostcoasthistoricalpatterns.com) Ok...their are some weird things about this pattern...and a few times the instructions didn't really make sense so i just winged it...I am satisfied with the final effect.

The ribbons and buttons were a gift from Kim Brown-Dye, the designer/owner of TopsyTurvy.com.

Anyone Ready for Halloween? :)